Velvet Overskirt Construction

Hello all!

This week has certainly been an interesting one. I won’t bore you with strenuous details, but life just keeps throwing curve balls! Oh well, more sewing was done. I admit, I was kind of burnt out of all the beading. I’ll get back to it once I take a little break from everything. I’d like to wear this ensemble to free comic book day and that’s about 3 weeks away. I think it’s totally doable but I still have to pace myself.

So basically to start the over skirt pattern I just messaged a couple squares and began my process. I know that I wanted to start the off with some cartridge pleats on the back because this is a 16th century inspired costume and there is a lot of fullness.

Blue Senate Gown Overskirt front panel cut out

This piece didn’t really require I pattern per say. It was just some calculated measuring. I ended up in the end interfacing the front panels to make then lay more flat but other than that this wasn’t too complicated. I sewed the two rectangles together and then began my cartridge pleating.

Blue Senate Gown Overskirt first run of bias tape

You start with the bias tape and so it on the RIGHT side of the fabric. Or at least that is how I do it 🙂 There is no right way or wrong way to go about this, it’s however you are comfortable.

Next I turn the fabric over and sew again.

Blue Senate Gown Overskirt Beginning of cartridge pleat construction

I chose this fabric specifically because of the color, and not because of the fiber content, so this velvet is really really stretchy. So using the bias tape really really made this process a ton easier.

Blue Senate Gown Overskirt cartridge pleating taking place

Next is just this simple task, of just pleating and hand sewing, which doesn’t take as long as you think but not as quick either!

Blue Senate Gown Overskirt back view cartridge pleating

Blue Senate Gown Overskirt back view

Once you are all done it should like something like this. It drapes rather well and I like the way it falls. Looks nice right?

Lastly, because this part took a lot of trial and error, I cut out the front panels as well. BOY! this was frustrating. The first one went together like a freaking angel, then the second one I had to redo it THREE times to make it lay right! I even had to cut out 2 sets of front panels as well. I really hope I have enough fabric for the jacket pieces. I think I do, but anyways, I’ll be finishing this skirt quite soon.

Blue Senate Gown Overskirt front panel construction

My original plan was to hand embroider the gold appliques to the front, but after getting started on that beading, I decided to forgo that idea and get some fairly accurate appliques instead. It only cost $44 to get something like 24 of them, but in the long run, I think it was worth it.

Lastly, I have to start thinking about the hair piece in the back. I don’t want to skimp out on that but this dress is already costing about $500 so I don’t want to splurge too much more.

Anyways, that’s as far as I got. I really want to work on this this weekend so that I can say that I’m leaving it in a good spot for next week. I feel like I’m just a tad behind the power curve.

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